Hem Jeans

If you follow the steps below, you'll learn how to hem jeans so that they look much like the original. The key is to make the final topstitching 1/2" to 5/8" from the bottom edge. This skinny hem is more attractive and looks less like it's been altered.


Scissors	Heavy Duty Needle	Ruler

	STEP ONE: Measure the amount to be shortened Mark that from the bottom up. I make a tailor's chalk line around the entire leg.
	STEP TWO: Rip out the old stitching. Note: If the amount you are shortening is greater than 1¼", you can skip this step.
	STEP THREE: Mark 1⅛" down from the chalk hem line to get your cutting line. Mark all the way around the leg. Use sleeve board for accuracy.
	STEP FOUR: Cut along this bottom chalk line. Now each leg has a line marking the new hem line. The 1⅛" becomes your hem allowance.
	STEP FIVE: Fold the hem allowance along the chalk line toward the inside of the pants. Press well.
	STEP SIX: The 1⅛" hem needs to be folded in half again, around ½" from the edge. This hides the raw edges inside the hem. Press. Then fold this hem allowance up once on the ½" fold line and again on the 1⅛" fold line. Press.
	STEP SEVEN: Stitch about ½" from the bottom edge. As shown here, the stitching is done on the outside. If you feel more comfortable, do this with the jeans inside out.
	STEP EIGHT: Your finished jean hem will look like this. Use jean thread and a jean needle for best results. You may also need a hump jumper when stitching over those thick inseams and outseams.

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